Another day in the rain, this time half the day in a cloud
that clung close to the flat farmland and then a steady rain that began 20
kilometers outside of Cascavel. Rain
affects the psyche, and too much of it can give a man the wrong idea about a
country or a city or a day. For example, I will create a list of cities in
Brasil that I want to live in—I will rank each city according to my impression.
Cities where I encountered rain or cold or clouds? They may never make it. I
may favor rainy cities which experienced sunny days and may outcast dry and
sunny cities which had rainy days. Christ.
I wish I could be eating
healthier, but the buffets (which have unpreserved meat and good food) are for lunch and are closed for dinner. For dinner
I eat pizzas and sandwiches and much bread and cheese. It does not do me well.
Right now I am not thinking very much. I am riding on
highways and experience traffic and trucks and cars. Lots of solitude and open
space today, but towards the towns much traffic. As I approached Cascavel I had
one of the more miserable approaches. Heavy rain and the upheaval of brown
splashing water sprayed by huge trucks, in my face and whipping me to the side
of the road, as I approached. It was heavy traffic and rain and brown water
from the clay-based mud. I made it to the center of town and explored a few neighborhoods
before getting a good feeling about one hotel. The cheapest room was $R69, but
I didn’t care. It’s a well-to-do city, mostly European. I put my bike in the
hotel and wanted a steak. I wandered around for 40 minutes before settling for
a burger ($R5) and a beer (R$2.5) and a bakery. I ate with high school folks who just got out of class. They all wore blue track pants, a uniform of sorts. They listened to Brazilian rap. I didn't pronounce the "X" in front of the Calabrese and he gal behind the counter was confused. But for my drink I went to their refrigerator and got it myself. I've gone from nervous foreigner to hollow-eyed man who rides all day in the rain. I've seen too much of this country to call myself a foreigner now. How many Brazilians have covered as much land as I have with their own feet? Yes, I know there is suffering here but I don't know if it. As Moraline has pointed out, I use money to separate myself.
I then went to the grocery, a large grocery
that is set up the same in each city. I got fried cheese and bread balls,
chicken legs, and some pizza like pastries and then the same items I get every
day: milk, granola, papaya, beer, and cachaca.
I then ate and still I feel
terrible. The rain and the darkness and the traffic takes it out of me. It
would be better to rent a place in Florianopolis
and run each day and swim on the beach and read and write and practice Portuguese
and meet some Brazilian women.
Heavy fog.
Fog.
Rain.
1.
ReplyDeleteThe Patagone grows: Woe to him in whom a Patagonia hides.
2.
To become the eagle that, for a long time,
A long time gazes with a fixed stare into abysses,
Into its abysses ...
— Oh how they spiral downward,
Down, down under,
Into ever deeper depths! —
Then,
Suddenly,
Plummeting straight down
Wings pulled out
To pounce on lambs,
Right down, hot-hungry,
Lusting for lambs,
Hating all lamb-souls,
Grimly hating whatever looks
Virtuous, sheepish, curly-wooled,
Dull, with lambs’ milk-goodwill
3.
To return from the Patagone thus, an eagle.