I had ridden 5 days in the rain
and there was salt and sand and heavy water. As I set up the bike this morning
I noticed slight rust on the chain—not bad for phi’s oil after a full day of
riding the day before.
The front hub rang like a beehive. I thought it could be
dealt with later. I paid the woman $R35 and hit the road. But it made a
terrible noise. It was rusted thoroughly. It would soon self-destruct if I
didn’t pull out the bearings on each race and apply new grease. I figured I could ride 90k to the next town
and then fix the issue. But after a few kilometers the sound was unbearable. I
decided to make it to the next town, 30k away, Langeiras do Sol. There I would
repack the front hub, even the rear hub.
I rode through the noise which got stronger as the
kilometers progressed. I accepted chaos
was normal. I would repack the hub and move on. Bt the noise was terrible. What
damage was I doing riding?
I arrived in town and passed the first two hotel—no, I
thought, no way. I rode around I saw a hotel near the town square and near the
grocery. She was full, but knew a hotel near the bus station. But that would
violate a rule—don’t stay near the bus station, as it’s rife with crime and rif
raf. I rode 7 blocks over to the hotel near the bus station. I spoke with the
wife and husband who owned the place. I spoke with the brother-in-law who
offered me corn crisps, his facebook, and the history of his bicycle (it was 16
years old, the rear derailler and cassette recently replaced).
I found my tools a grease and deflated the front tire to
remove from the front brake. Upon removing I realized there was nothing wrong with
the hub but there was a piece of wire stick between the front fender and tire
which accounted for the terrible noise. Realizing there was no problem. I knew
I was free to get new earphones (which had just crapped out) and get food.
I wandered the streets
for new earphones. I spotted what I thought were good ones and payed down $R25.
I opened them and realized they were shit, the kind you get on an airplane. I
needed food and got a beer and a meat pastry for $R5 and then hit up the
grocery for lime-water-cachaca, pizza, and beer. I ate my late lunch in the
courtyard of a church as ants attacked my feet. As I walked back I saw an old
dark skinned man with a bag sitting by a store. He looked like a traveler. His
hand was badly infected and looked like he would lose his pinky. I offered him
a bottle of booze—a 500ml 15% concoction of cachca, sugar, water, and lime
juice. He took a sip. I took a sip. I
left him with the bottle.
New method for erva mate.
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